Day 10 – Friday 17 June 1994 – Lyon and Grenoble!

Left Formule 1.  Not a pleasant one.  Stank and there were noisy kids in our wing.

Drove into Lyon and somehow managed to find the right part of town.  Nice shops then nice alleyways with lovely bakeries.  No more Boulangeries.  Food is fantastic.  Got ripped off on coffee again though.  Probably because we have large white ones rather than petite black ones.

Stumbled across the most fantastic fruit market.  Bought nearly 50F of fruit which was 2 bags.  Had a few wrangles with vendors when I picked a couple of pieces of fruit out of each bowl to buy.  Finally realised that they had measured them out as kilo lots to buy.  Ended up with a kilo of pears rather than 2 pears… Earlier vendors had let us buy one or two pieces.  Latter ones must have been a wholesale area.  Market in general was unreal.  Great Provence fruit everywhere.  Bought up big.

Lyon – assortment of small European cars, Plan trees (same as Salamanca Market) and the huge fruit, vegetable, cheese and fish market than ran for at least 500m by the river – Le marché Saint-Antoine, quai Saint-Antoine.
Lyon postcard of Saint-Antoine market

Had a look at the Lyon Cathedral  in the centre square.  Wonderful.

Lyon Cathedral and le quartier St Jean
Lyon – Rue St Jean

Then walked up a very steep hill to a huge cathedral (Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière)on the hill overlooking the city.  Totally unreal, sumptuous and magnificent.  Views were spectacular  over the city.  Cathedral decoration was lavish, gilt, mosaics etc.  Wonderful, reasonably priced restaurant there but too full from muesli and coffee to eat.  View would have been great.

Lyon – Basilique Notre Dame de Fourviere, completed in 1896. Described by some as ‘hideous in a depraved taste which should be seen to be believed’.
Lyon Basilique Notre Dame de Fourviere mosaic
Odeon Ampitheatre – roman ruins in Fourviére district (on the hill)
Odeon Ampitheatre – roman ruins in Fourviére district (on the hill) – children rehearsing a play
Lyon – view from the Basilique over the Saône River
Lyon – view from the Basilique over the Saône River
Lyon – view from the Basilique over the Saône River
Lyon – Saône River

Bought a singlet top and pair of bathers (149F).

Didn’t end up leaving town until about 3.00pm.  Lyon turned out to be much better than expected.  Last night was disgusting though.

Headed off for Grenoble.  About half way we came over the top of the hill (countryside very hilly now) and had a breathtaking view of the valley with alps in the background.  Unreal.

Grenoble – view driving from Lyon along the N85
Grenoble – view driving from Lyon along the N85
Grenoble – police booking someone on the road and the Alps beginning to appear in the background.

Stopped below to fill up with petrol then headed back up to take photos.

View the Alps at Grenoble
Grenoble alps
Gorgeous view of the Alps at Grenoble.

Stopped at a few places before Grenoble to check accommodation.  Most were too expensive.  Found one for 80F (cheapest we have found).  What a dive.  The bed looked clean though with a bolster as a pillow the width of the bed. Had a bidet in the room (cracked, brown and nasty) and the shower and toilet were down the hallway.

Headed off into Grenoble for dinner.

Looked around a bit then found a large mall full of outdoor seating for various restaurants.  Selected Bistro Romain.  Looked nice.  Ordered white wine.  They didn’t have house white wine.  Only red (rouge) or rose.  Bummer.  Had to select a white.  Luckily the waitress spoke some English and 1/2 bottle was only 39.90F.  Chose 55F menu. 3 courses.  I had quiche for entree but ended up with Mark’s egg then chicken and pasta.  Mark had the strangest steak I have ever seen with French Fries.  No veggies.  Very disappointing and ordinary.  Had sorbet (Mark) and some sort of baked custard in sauce (me) afterwards.

A red or rose glass of wine was included so we had that too and bread. Very ordinary.  Disappointed, wanted a real French meal since we were actually splashing out and having dinner.  Ordering the meal was very tedious.  Had to look up all items in the dictionary from the menu.

26 deg C at about 7.30pm.  Incredibly hot afternoon.

Lyon to Grenoble via the N85 original map

Day 11 – Saturday 18 June 1994 – Grenoble and Orange!